Thursday, August 9, 2012

Jeju Island

As an employee at a hagwon (private kindergarten) in Korea, I am given substantially less vacation time then public school teachers. To make the most of my five-day summer vacation, I decided to spend five days cycling around semi-tropical coastline of Jeju island.

Jeju is Korea's largest island and has been given several honorific recognitions. UNESCO has designated the island with a Triple Crown standing and an organization based in Switzerland has declared that the island is one of the New7Wonders of Nature, winning over places such as the Grand Canyon and Galapagos.

Perhaps, what's most fascinating, is the islands long history of natural and human cohabitation. For example, Seongsan Sunrise Peak is the world's largest forested volcanic crater and at it's base, a town thrives.

Seongsan Sunrise Peak, Jeju Island

My co-worker, Brian, hooked me up with a travel hiking group based in Seoul. The organizer, Warren, was advertising a five-day bicycle trip around Jeju's coastline. Unfortunately, only two of us signed up for this adventure. As a result, the bicycles were eleminated and we were absorbed into a bus tour for 35 people also planned by Warren.

While being confined to traveling at the same pace as 34 other tourists was not an appealing change of plans, I was soon sunburned enough to be glad that I was not riding a bicycle for eight hours a day.

By far, my favorite site was Hallasan. Rising 1,950 meters above sea level, Mount Halla is Korea's tallest mountain and nearly 2,000 meters shorter than Mount Fuji in Japan. For the record, Mom, Mount Haku is 2,700 meters above sea level -- 750 meters taller than Korea's tallest mountain. 

Hallasan, Jeju Island

Almost as impressive as the view from the summit, was the picnic spread that Korean hiking groups hauled up to the peak. While the foreign tourists carried little more than water and granola bars, the Korean hikers brought entire meals, complete with side dishes and of course, their choice of alcohol.

Speaking (or more accurately, writing) of food, Jeju is famous for heukdweji, pork that comes from a black pig. If you have read my post about visiting the toilet bowl museum, you know that Jeju, until fairly recently used these domesticated pigs to eat the wastes that fell from second-story outhouses. This cultural tradition has disappeared since the 1960s and now the pigs eat a standard diet on par with other pigs around the world.

heukdweji dinner

As usual for a Korean meal, a full table of side dishes is served first. The meat is then brought out uncooked and barbequed over a pit built into the table. As the meat cooks, one uses kitchen scissors to cut the large chunks into bite-sized pieces that can be dipped into a sesame oil and salt mixture. Finally, the pork can be popped into the mouth solo or wrapped in lettuce or shiso leaves with samples of the side dishes. I love, love, love Korean barbequed pork.

More sights from Jeju:

Jusangjeolli Cliffs

I thought these volcanic columns were impressive. So did every other tourist on Jeju. We had to walk single-file along a boardwalk to view the rocks.

Jeongbang Waterfall

You can't tell by the photo, but just behind all of the people photographing the waterfall is the ocean. Playing the part of obnoxious foreigners, we jumped into the water as soon as someone noticed that there were no guards present. Shortly after we emerged from the pool, a guard appeared.

Note: Traveling with a group of 35, was made most-bearable by the guy photo-bombing my tourist shot. Every morning, Jason prepared the most delicious breakfasts I've eaten in Korea, featuring pancakes, bacon and my favorite, breakfast burritos with left over heukdweji. My roommates and I even bonded over Jason's breakfasts. Each morning, my roommates and I awoke before everyone else to head for the kitchen and claim the best pieces for ourselves. He even made BLTs (my favorite sandwiches) for lunch one day. So yum!

The beach next to our Pension Hotel


Before I sign off, I want everyone who receives a postcard from me in the coming days to know that I rushed to write each one while on the island. After I finished, I realized that I had not left enough time to find a post office and had to carry them all back to Seoul to put in the mail anyway.


I hope everyone is staying cool and enjoying the second half of summer. 
That's all for now.

No comments:

Post a Comment